How to Stop Cashmere Pilling (and Fix It)

Those little fuzzy balls on a new cashmere sweater panic people. They shouldn’t. Pilling is normal, it’s fixable in a few minutes, and a little bit of it is not a sign that you bought badly. Here’s why it happens, how to fix it, and how to get less of it next time.

Why cashmere pills

Pills form where fibers rub against each other, the sides, under the arms, where a bag strap sits, where sleeves meet a desk. Short, loose fibers work their way out and tangle into balls. Almost all of this is friction, not a defect.

New cashmere often pills the most in its first few wears as the loosest surface fibers shed. After that initial period it usually settles down. The fix is the same throughout.

How to remove pills the right way

The trick is to cut or lift the pills off, never to pull them. Pulling drags healthy fiber out of the knit and thins the fabric.

• A cashmere comb is the gentlest tool. Lay the sweater flat and draw the comb in one direction across the pilled area.
• A fabric shaver (electric de-piller) is faster for big areas. Keep it moving lightly and don’t press hard.
• A sweater stone works too, with a gentle touch.

Lay the garment flat, work in good light, and go slow. Five minutes brings most sweaters back to looking new.

How to slow it down

You can’t stop pilling completely, but you can cut it way down.

1. Buy a higher grade. This is the real lever. Grade A cashmere uses longer fibers that stay anchored in the knit, so it pills far less than cheap, short-fiber cashmere. It’s a big reason a published-grade sweater is worth more than a mystery one.
2. Rotate your wears. Give a sweater a day off between wearings so the fibers recover.
3. Wash it gently and inside out. Friction in the wash causes pilling too. Our cashmere washing guide covers the safe method.
4. Watch the friction points. Crossbody bags and rough desk edges are the usual culprits.

The honest expectation

Even great cashmere pills a little. The difference between a $50 Grade A crewneck and a $400 one is not whether it pills, it’s how much, and both fix the same way with a comb. So don’t let a few pills scare you off affordable cashmere. Buy the grade, keep a comb in the drawer, and you’re set.